Neroli (Citrus Aurantium, Amara) is one of the favorite fragrant notes for all perfume lovers and perfumers who like to combine it with hesperidic, citrusy notes in many modern perfume compositions. It is obtained from the flowers of the bitter orange tree, just like the perfume note of the orange blossom – the difference is only in the process of getting the scent. While neroli is obtained by steam distillation of freshly picked buds, an orange blossom note is obtained using a solvent. Hence the difference in these two scents: while neroli is airier, greener, and honey-floral sweet at the very bottom, the fragrant note of orange blossom is slightly sweeter, with a more pronounced orange tone.
The name “Neroli” comes from a small Italian town and a beauty who lived there. Namely, Anne Marie Orsini was in love with his scent that filled the air in the spring. She was the first to make essential oil by distilling neroli flowers, which she used to perfume clothes, gloves, and warm baths. Anne Marie Orsini caused a complete madness of the local population who could not resist this magnificent fragrance with distinct floral notes.
Long before that, the bitter orange tree was grown mainly in the Middle East countries, after which it was brought to Europe during the trade.
Neroli oil or orange blossom oil is today mostly produced in the south of France, Italy, Tunisia, Morocco, Libya, and Algeria. French and Tunisian oil is at the forefront of the quality of this seductive and refreshing fragrance. Thus, the famous perfume house Guerlain in Tunisia has its property with bitter orange trees. Haiti’s oil is entirely different because it is produced from the flowers of bitter orange and the remnants of the grapefruit tree’s flowers. This neroli oil has interesting subtones and does not serve as a substitute but as a fragrance modifier in many perfumes.
Interestingly, neroli flowers must be distilled immediately after picking to avoid creating an unpleasant odor due to flower decay. So the production of fragrant oil itself must be professionally and quickly monitored. For this reason, many perfumers like to oversee the process of obtaining this precious fragrant oil.
Neroli oil has been used for perfume purposes for decades. It is pale yellow with irresistible floral properties and freshness of citrus, so it is an excellent top note in many perfumes. Neroli is one of the more lasting top notes of the perfume and is also used as a natural fixative if the perfumer wants to prolong the duration of the fresh facet of the perfume as much as possible. It blends perfectly with hesperidic notes but also combines exceptionally well with floral notes. In fragrances, ner is traditionally used in the form of eau de cologne. To prolong the duration of this perfect spring/summer fragrance, neroli must be combined with more lasting middle and lower notes.
We find it in both women’s and men’s perfumes. Besides rose, jasmine, and ylang-ylang, neroli is one of the most popular notes of perfumers worldwide, where we meet it as a faithful companion of white flower notes, with which it forms an unbreakable yin-yang whole.
One of the most famous perfumes with a note of neroli is Tom Ford’s Ner Portofino, in which the fragrant note of neroli plays a significant role that lasts an incredibly long time. It is a classic combination of neroli with sparkling citrus notes, especially complemented with aromatic notes of rosemary, sage, and balsamic base notes. Neroli Portofino is one of the ideal perfumes for summer because it gives you an irresistible experience of walking through the Mediterranean’s gardens.
The sophisticated composition with fragrant note of neroli is Ner Outrenoir by Guerlain, which emphasizes the green note of neroli paired with aromatic-spicy black tea, which gives mysticism and character to this composition.
Basil & Ner by Jo Malone London is another great combination of neroli with basil. It gives you a complete experience of the Amazon rainforest and the feeling that you have just stepped into a rainforest and wilderness that you have never met before.
Le Labo Ner 36 is a blend of neroli with other citrus notes with jasmine and rose that develops into a refreshingly clean, powdery scent. It provides a feeling of purity and balance of mind and soul. It is one of the school examples of how to work with the fragrant note of neroli.
Famous perfumes with fragrant note of neroli are:
- Acqua di Parma Essenza di Colonia
- Annick Goutal Les Colognes Ner.
- Atelier Cologne Grand Ner.
- Atelier Rebul Ner.
- Bath and Body Works Tunisian Ner.
- Bond No 9 Eau de New York
- Bvlgari Aqua Amara
- Comptoir Noble Ner.
- Demeter Ner.
- Ferrari Bright Ner.
- Floris Neroli Voyage
- Galimard Ner.
- Jean Paul Gaultier Fleur du Male
- L’Occitane Ner.
- LUSH Uptown Funk
- Mugler Cologne
- Ormonde Jayne Tanger
- Xerjoff Nio
- Yves Rocher Secret d’Essences Ner.
- Zegna Mediterranean Ner.