In the realm of scent, there exist certain notes that possess the power to captivate the senses and transport us to a world of mystery, intrigue, and allure. One such note, a timeless enigma that has fascinated perfumers and scent enthusiasts for centuries, is that of civet. A paradoxical union of the animalic and the sweet civet weaves a spellbinding tale, whispering of sensuality and seduction that beckons us to delve deeper into its secrets. No one knows for sure, but when the perfume note of civet is handled carefully, its sensuality and sex appeal are unparalleled.
Civet is a secretion derived from the glands of the civet cat (Vivera civetta), a nocturnal mammal native to Africa and Asia. For generations, it has been prized for its complex, musky odor, employed as a base note in many iconic fragrances. In times past, the substance was harvested in a rather cruel manner. The cat was put in a cage, where workers would hit the cage to make it angrier so it would secrete more of this fragrant substance, and then they would remove this waxy substance by spooning it out. Fortunately, the perfume industry has since transitioned to synthetic alternatives that emulate the captivating scent without causing harm to the civet cat.
In Europe, civet was mainly used for perfuming the raw leather used to make gloves. By the end of the 18th century and the beginning of the 19th century, many fashionistas had already used its essence. Even the famous poet William Cowper alludes to this practice:
I cannot talk with civet in the room,
A fine puss gentleman that’s all perfume,
The sight’s enough, no need to smell the beau,
Who thrust his nose into a rare show?
One of the most intriguing aspects of the civet note is its duality. It possesses an animalic, almost pungent quality, yet it simultaneously exudes a sweetness that makes it irresistible. This paradoxical nature allows civet to bring an element of seduction and sophistication to a fragrance, making it a highly sought-after component in the realm of luxury perfumes.
The magic of civet truly shines when it is masterfully blended with other notes. In the hands of a skilled perfumer, it can elevate a composition from the ordinary to the extraordinary. Its unique characteristics lend depth and richness to a fragrance, creating an air of mystery and intrigue that is difficult to resist.
Some classic examples of fragrances featuring civet include Chanel No. 5 and Guerlain’s Shalimar. In Chanel No. 5, it adds a subtle sensuality that complements the sparkling aldehydes and opulent florals. On the other hand, Shalimar showcases civet’s ability to enhance the seductive qualities of an oriental blend, seamlessly melding with notes of vanilla, amber, and bergamot.
Contemporary perfumers continue to explore the potential of civet, creating innovative and unexpected scent combinations. Zoologist Civet, for example, showcases the note in a daring and dark interpretation, while Frederic Malle’s Musc Ravageur presents a fresher, more modern take.
WHAT ARE YOUR FAVORITE ANIMALIC PERFUMES? LEAVE IN THE COMMENTS BELOW. THANKS, IGOR
