Coco Mademoiselle Intense is a flanker of Coco Mademoiselle perfume line from 2001, inspired by Chanel classic – Coco from 1984. In the new version, Chanel intensifies the old perfume formula of Coco Mademoiselle with a large amount of patchouli and amber chord made of tonka and Madagascar vanilla. Just like the legendary Chanel no 5 and Guerlain Shalimar, and most of the other genius perfumes, the idea around Coco Mademoiselle Intense was for the scent to rest on the titanic struggle between two opposite forces, the light and the dark, patchouli and vanilla. Extreme, deep, light patchouli and warm, soft, feminine vanilla. Has Chanel made it with its new perfume that comes to our perfume shops like the messenger of spring?

To get the answer to this perfume, we have to go back to 2001. Although I don’t have the feeling that so many years have passed, when someone tells me something happened 15 years ago I immediately think of the 90s’ and the absolute domination of Angel. But, alas, if we perfume lovers know anything it is to carry our years with style and don’t give a sign, except for the phenomenal taste in perfumes that wasn’t built in a day.

The end of a decade and the beginning of a new millennium. In a time when everyone was Angel or wanted to be an Angel, a new line of perfume art was needed. Going back to fruit chypre compositions was to retro and the world was already used to the avant-garde style of Annick Menardo and the combination of organic and nonorganic fragrance notes. Jacques Polge, Chanel’s official perfumist at the time, decided to play safe and made a decent, sophisticated version of Angel. It has everything that was needed, herbal oriental base and pompous floral chords. But while Angel was energico, pomposo, espressivo, Coco Mademoiselle was dolcissimo, grazioso, spiccato. Apparently, everyone was taken back with the worldwide success of Coco Mademoiselle, Chanel included. Unlike Gabrielle that was for years announced as the New Five, Coco Mademoiselle was exactly that, a new Chanel perfume diva.

Coco Mademoiselle Intense is an upgrade of the original composition. Right after the opening, our nose is flushed with fresh, a bit acid citrus noted of Sicilian orange and Calabrian bergamot. Soon, the upper notes are replaced by an interesting interpretation of patchouli, known for its woody, earthy and oriental scent. Instead, od sinking into the earthy tones, patchouli remains in the vitreous hights, thanks to the citruses. After an hour, vanilla becomes dominant and the lead of the perfume. The play of fragrance notes continues for 10 hours and, just like it was announced, there is a switch between light and darkness, warmth and cold, patchouli and vanilla. I must admit I find this play extremely attractive. If I had to compare Coco Mademoiselle Intense with Dior Midnight Poison,  M. Micallef Patchouli, Lancome La Vie est Belle or Annick Goutal Ambre Sauvage, it would be like I was comparing the ballet of Aja Jung and Ashen Ataljanc, PR and pure art. Conclusion  Coco Mademoiselle Intense is a daring version of the original, as intense as years and few bad life decisions, like choosing a wrong partner (Olivier Polge) can be. Coco Mademoiselle is the same mademoiselle from 2001 that eventually married a hippy, gained 20 pounds, joined the hippy commune and developed a supernatural love for pickles. What is happening with Chanel? Are people right when they say that Olivier Polge, unlike his father, can’t find his way around Chanel bases and chords or is there something else? Everyone can fail sometimes. We’ve forgiven them Gabrielle. But when will Channel once again become what it was? For now, we can only hope and enjoy he classics of the pre-Olivier Chanel era reminiscing of the old glory, French chic and glamour.

[Scent notes] top notes: orange, bergamot; middle notes: jasmine, rose; base notes: patchouli, vanilla, tonka.

[Scent group] oriental woody.

Perfume creator is Olivier Polge.