Mem is a perfume by the Italian perfume brand Bogue that was founded in 2012 and is one of the most exciting young hopes of the perfume world. The creative genius behind this house is Antonio Gardoni, an architect who, with his gift and skill, has succeeded in incorporating the principles and knowledge of architecture into the perfume work itself, thus enriching the perfume scene of today, and delivering a fatal blow to commercial perfumery, laden with numbers and pleasing the taste of the broad masses.
It’s not the only fatal blow Antonio has given to big brands. He, like Pissara Umavijani, the owner and creator behind another fantastic niche brand – Dusita, that I wrote about in the review for the extraordinary Erawan perfume, is entirely self-taught. He studied scents for many years. He was engaged in techniques for extracting fragrant oils from plants by the method of distillation, extraction, and maceration. Doing so, he noticed the subtle differences and nuances that each technique, as well as the origin of the plant, gave to, and ultimately start mixing them, thus creating his very own concoctions. The result: perfumes that exceed the expectations of everyone, and even Luca Turin who ranked Mem in the TOP 20 best fragrances in the past 10 years.
The most remarkable achievement of Mem perfume, among other things, is the inventive use of lavender that has not been seen in almost a century since Guerlain’s Jicky perfume. Antonio has achieved this by using 5 different types of lavender that describe and saturate every fragrant facet that this irreplaceable plant provides: from medicinal, camphoraceous to the green and earthy, all fused, present and lovingly displayed in Mem perfume.
The perfume composition of Mem is an oriental fougere and is based on the dualism of aromatic and sweet notes, in this case, lavender and roasted barley. At the heart of the perfume is an unusual chord of buttery white flowers – jasmine and rose and geranium, which introduces toasted barley into the story, otherwise present in beer production, giving it sweetness and complex aroma from fried sugar to dark, chocolate tones. Mem perfume base is dominated by animalic notes ambergris, castoreum, and civet. They are so rare and forbidden in modern perfumery, but they give libidinous appeal and animal magnetism to the compositions. Another fantastic feature of this perfume is that it is enriched with microdoses of carefully selected scents, which appear and disappear in seconds, pulsating from your skin, making every new wave and rush of Mem perfume different and unique. An amazing olfactory experience.[Fragrance notes] top notes: petitgrain, mandarin, grapefruit, lavender; middle notes: ylang-ylang, rose, geranium, magnolia, vanilla, mint, laurel, malt; base notes: ambergris, rosewood, benzoin, cedar, labdanum, amber, musk, castoreum, civet. [Fragrance group] oriental fougere.
Perfume creator is Antonio Gardoni.